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Cartography Chic

Guilds and associations are great places to connect with other artists, bounce ideas around, get support, feedback, and be challenged to push one’s creativity and art.  My fiber guild is the Ann Arbor Fiberarts Guild and back in May 2014, a challenge was issued for the April 2015 meeting:

Recycled and Repurposed Runway 

Tablecloths, cassette tape, telephone wire, discarded garments, curtains and draperies, old sweaters, cast off jewelry – any and all of these materials might go into a garment or accessory you create for this creative runway show.
Your object of fashion may be wearable and useable…. or not,
sedate or flamboyant…. or something in between,
fashionable…. or not.
The only criteria is it must be made from used materials.
How creative can Guild members be?
We will learn the answer to that on the runway!

I had already woven a garment using audio cassette tape [see July 2013 post “Recycle… Upcycle…. Fairs… and more…..”] which had been part of our annual spring fashion show in 2014 so I wanted to come up with something new.  What to use and what to do?  For the next 9 months ideas simmer in the back of my mind…. and then I cleaned out a cabinet.  There were the National Geographic maps that had been collecting for over 30 years!

Cartography ~ study and practice of making maps
The premise being that by combining science, aesthetics, and technique,
reality can be modeled in ways that communicate spatial information effectively.

I’ve always liked maps.  The lines, shapes, colors can be beautiful works of art.  We even used them to decorate the nursery when the kids were little.  I would weave something out this pile of maps!

nursery map

But what?

In 1999, I attended my first Association of Guilds of Weavers, Spinners and Dyers summer school taking a course on weaving with bulrushes taught by Linda Lemieux. In the USA, bulrushes are a protected plant but in the UK, they can be cultivated and harvested making this was a unique opportunity for me.  We wove braided bands, containers and finished the week with making a hat.

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I would use those same techniques to weave a hat & purse out of maps!  I made samples weaving on the bias and plain weave to see how pliable the map paper was.  It was quickly apparent that the paper on its own was very flimsy and I would have to reinforce it to keep it from tearing and to be firm enough to hold the shape.

Using my notes from a workshop I took in 2000 from Jackie Abrams weaving with painted cotton paper as reference, I used a spray adhesive to attach the map paper to sheets of artist canvas.  I made several more tests cutting the map/canvas strips into 1/2″ and 1/4″ widths and used waxed linen thread when twinning was needed.  This worked much better and I was ready to start!

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I laid out 1/2″ wide map/canvas strips in a plain weave….

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and laid that on the bias over a hard foam hat block to weave the crown using pins and clips to keep it in place.  I stitched the base of the crown to secure the proper diameter.

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I was not able to weave the brim as I had done on the bulrush hat but made it separate and attached it to the crown using hot glue.

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Next I trimmed the spokes, used the spay adhesive to attach a map to the underside of the brim, and machine stitched around the edge.

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Making the purse was MUCH easier!!!  Using 1/2″ map/canvas strips and a styrofoam block for the mold, I wove a 12″ x 5 1/2″ x 1″ clutch bag.

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All the pieces were given a coat of matt varnish to provide added strength and protection.

The Cartography Chic Hat & Purse Set is just the ticket
for any explorer with a flair for fashion!

When disaster strikes……

Every artist knows there are times when a project just does not want to go as planned and this was one of those projects.

In September I started on a commissioned shawl.  The warp was 10/2 cotton in 20 colors.

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642 yarns threaded in a point twill over 8 shafts/harnesses.

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3″ into the weaving and I realized I had a misthread in the pattern = inappropriate expletive uttered!!!  What to do?
Do I (A) keep going with the philosophy that we humans are not perfect and embrace my imperfection or (B) correct the mistake = unweave, untie, unthread, rethread, and retie?

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If this was something I was making for myself, I would probably go with option (A) as there was only 1 thread in the wrong place.  BUT this shawl is something I am selling and the buyer deserves the highest quality work I can give…. so option (B) is it.

I took out the black 5/2 cotton weft and the red header then dealt with 200+ threads and heddles to get the 1 thread moved to the correct shaft, retie and finally back to where I was…. 24 hours earlier.

Weaving now went fairly smoothly…

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…until 5″ from the end when I noticed a lot of black fuzz = uh-oh.  I took out several rows to see what was going on and I realized the 5/2 cotton yarn was disintegrating = WHAT is going on here????  This particular cone of yarn had been in my stash for quite a while and though the outer section was OK so the first 2/3 of the shawl was fine, the middle of the cone had rotted and the last third of the shawl was falling apart = REALLY inappropriate expletives uttered!!

At this point I had no idea if the fabric was stable and would hold up during washing so I stopped weaving, hemmed it, cut it off the loom and held my breath as I put it in the washing machine.

Here’s how it came out.  A misthread is a pain but this is a disaster that cannot be saved.

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I emailed my client and explained the situation.  Luckily she was OK with getting the shawl by the end of October so back to square one I go.  I decided this time I would use 5/2 bamboo for the weft, ordered the NEW yarn, and as I waited for the delivery, I began to wind out another warp.  I kept the ends of the old warp threaded through the reed and heddles so all I had to do is tie the new warp onto the old then pull it through.

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The second warp wound on and the new weft in hand, time to start weaving…. AGAIN.

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This time there was no added drama as 87″ of this new shawl was woven, hemmed, cut off the loom…

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…and the finishing work began = tying knots and twisting fringe.

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Holding my breath I put it into the washing machine….. and it came out just fine = whew!!  

Because one side of the fabric has the colored warp dominant and the other has the black weft dominant I sewed the shawl into a mobius loop so that you can see both sides = SUCCESS!!  And the Rainbow Mobius Wrap has been shipped to her new owner.

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Lesson learned from this project:
check ALL yarn prior to using it in a project!!!

 

Look Ma….. No Seams!

In the middle of September I spend 3 fabulous days in a felting workshop with international feltmaker and clothing designer Charity Van der Meer from the Netherlands.  The workshop was organized by Michigan felt artist Dawn Edwards and held at Design Street, a community art education center in Plainwell, Michigan.

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The old fire station has lots of natural light and plenty of space for 12 large felting stations.

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Charity’s work is amazing!  She combines colors, textures and shapes to create clothing that is soft, light weight and comfortable to wear.

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The  focus of this workshop was to make a one-piece nuno felted dress or skirt with an emphasis on pleating, layering and adding godets to the design.  Using her very simple but effective patterns we were encouraged to use our imagination and develop our own fashion ideas.  We calculated our starting dimensions (the dress will shrink 100%) and Charity showed us how trace out our patterns onto plastic and add the godet panel(s).  [A godet is a triangular piece of material inserted in a dress, shirt, or glove to make it flared or for ornamentation.]

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Using silk chiffon fabric and merino wool fibers we created layers wrapping the silk & base wool around the plastic pattern.  The plastic works as a resist to keep the wool & silk from felting into a 2D shape instead of the 3D shape needed to be a dress.  Overlapping the silk fabric and wool fibers at the shoulders and sides creates the ‘seam’ so no sewing is involved!!

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Day 2:  The silk fabric & wool fibers are layered for the other side but this time making sure to cover the godet separately.

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Now the fun begins = adding the details and embellishments to the dress!!  I used wool fibers, silk fibers, polyester lace fabric, blended wool/silk fiber, plus wool and silk yarns.

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Wet down the front of the dress with warm soapy water.

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Layout my design and wet down the back.

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Sandwich everthing between plastic……

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Roll it all up in an anti-skid rug mat and old sheet then start rolling…… rolling…. rolling….

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Day 3: Continue  rolling…. rolling… rolling…..

Now it’s time to unwrap and try it on!  (Oh…. was this the part soggy!!!)
And…. oh my gosh…. it fits like a glove!!

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Charity helped smooth and give finishing touches to everyone’s dress.

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And we all went out for a group photo.  Each dress and skirt was true one-of-a-kind work of art!!!

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I even had enough time to layout a shorter top before leaving and felted it at home the next day.

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This workshop was just the ticket to my get my creative juices flowing this fall!  I will definitely continue to work with this technique and I’ve made a note in my 2016 fall calendar = Charity may be back to give another workshop!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Waulking and Art Fair and more…. oh my!

July has been a month filled with one event after another!  

Starting with demonstrating in the Textiles Tent at the Saline Celtic Festival which combines my 2 artistic loves…. stories and weaving.

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The weather was sunny and relatively cool for a Michigan summer so attendance was good for the festival.  Mary Underwood and CJ Kohoyda-Inglis organized the Textile Tent filling it with fabulous fiber folk so besides my weaving demonstration, there were members of The Spinners Flock demonstrating different forms of spinning and knitting.

One of highlights of our tent is ‘Waulking the Tweed’ with Frances Acar leading us in song.  ‘Waulking’ is the Scottish Gaelic word for fulling.  Woven woolen fabric needs to be ‘fulled’ when it comes off the loom.  Pressure, warmth and moisture creates tiny pockets of air that lift up the woolen fibers making the surface softer, thicker and more weather resistant.  Before the days of machines this was done by hand with friends and family in a community event – each bringing fabric that needed to be fulled.  If there was not a table long enough for the fabric, doors were often taken off hinges and set on the ground or saw horses for the work surface.  Songs were sung to set the pace, rhythm and coordinate movement.  By measuring the woolen fabric after every 2 or 3 songs controlled shrinkage can be achieved.  The songs are call-and-response with the leader singing the verses and everyone else singing the refrain.  Many of the songs were about how wonderful, intelligent or handsome a husband/lover is OR how that husband/lover is a no good rogue and lowlife.  (Some things haven’t changed over the centuries!)

Right on the heels of Celtic Festival came the Ann Arbor Art Fairs.
For 4 days more than 1,000 artists sprawl over 27 blocks of Ann Arbor as 4 separate nationally recognised art fairs are going on simultaneously.  The weather was fantastic and nearly 500,000 people came over the 4 days.  My work, along with 15 other guild members, was part of the Ann Arbor Fiberarts Guild booth in the State Street Area Art Fair.  It certainly ‘took a village’ or in this case a guild (16 sellers and 20 volunteers) – to build, man, and take down our booth.

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IMG_20140715_095055_809   IMG_5885 felt jacket silk purses small purses  IMG_5878 IMG_5843 IMG_5838

And finally…. the month closes out with the National Storytelling Network Conference in Mesa, Arizona filled with master classes, keynotes, workshops, storytelling concerts and swaps.  Here I’ll connect with storytellers from across the country and help with the 8th season of the Fringe Performances.

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Michigan League of Handweavers Biennial Fiber Show

I spent a lovely summer afternoon in Holland, Michigan for the last day of the Michigan League of Handweavers Biennial Fiber Show – complete with refreshments, awards ceremony and Ann Keister’s comments on jurying the show as well as a PowerPoint presentation of her work.

Surround Sound Vest won 3rd place in the Functional Fiber category and besides being presented with a lovely woven & beaded ribbon…. I got $75 in prize money too!!

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It was nice to see ‘Surround Sound Vest’ and my ‘Green Man’ tapestry, as well as all the other fabulous fiber works of art displayed so beautifully.  Hats off to everyone at MLH who worked so hard to put 80 items on display!!

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Samurai: Beyond the Armor Fashion Design Competition

Arriving early at the Detroit Institute of Arts for a talk ‘The Medieval Art of Swordplay’ by Jeffrey Forgeng who is the curator at the Higgins Armory Museum – Worcester Art Museum, I stumbled upon the creations by 10 local designers which had just dazzled the runway in an unusual fashion show at the DIA.  The fashion show was the culmination of a competition hosted by the DIA and Detroit Garment Group Guild (DG3), in which the designers were challenged to create outfits inspired by the DIA exhibition, Samurai: Beyond the Sword.  These garments were amazing!!!

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I may have missed the formal runway show but being able to stand next to these exquisite garments afterward as the models moved about the sunlit Rivera Court….

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To see them ‘up close’…. oh this was my lucky day!  Check out DG3’s site for photos of the all the entries.

 

Riverbend – rustic beginnings

Working out of my house is a good news/bad news sort of thing.  The good news… I don’t have to pay extra rent for studio space.  The bad news… it’s not always easy to shut out the distractions of everyday life.

(2008)
5 years ago this month, I was able to purchase 5 acres of beautiful undeveloped central Michigan woodland on the Tittabawassee River.  This was my chance to have a place away from distractions – where I could go to be inspired, to rejuvenate and recharge the ‘creative batteries’.

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Now when I say undeveloped…. I mean undeveloped.  Nothing there but the trees, river, wetlands, and all the critters (large & small) that go with it.  My dream of having a ‘retreat from the world studio space’ was not going to happen over night!

Year 1 (2009)
Putting in a 700 ft lane to get from the main road back to the ridge that over looks the river meant crossing the protected wetlands in the middle of the acreage and involved working with the Michigan Department of Environmental Quality.  It took nearly 700 cubic yards of sand and gravel to build up the road and 3 culverts (1 of which is 2ft in diameter!) to keep the natural drainage of the wetlands.
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Year 2 (2010)
I purchased a 1970 Airstream trailer to have a living space that is a step up from rustic tent camping.
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Years 3 & 4 (2011-2012)
Improved the path down the steep ridge to the river, built a small deck for sitting and dock.

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Year 5 (2013)
Every time I go up to Riverbend I am filled with a sense of peace and tranquility.

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Deer, raccoons, porcupines, garter snakes, geese, grouse, and turkeys are just a few of the critters that stop by on a regular basis.  Staying in the Airstream works OK for kitchen and common space but it’s a pain to keep pulling out the couch for sleeping, there’s no space for a travel loom, and more importantly… the plumbing is shot.  Building a ‘real’ house with electricity, a well, and a septic field is not in my future financially but luckily, I am married to an engineer who is fascinated with the challenge of building a small studio space ‘off the grid and environmentally sound & sustainable’.

And so the next phase of this adventure begins…..

Weaving in Wales – Summer School winds down…..

One of the best things about summer school is the ‘Walk About’ on Saturday afternoon.  This is when we all get a chance to see what everyone else has been doing all week.  It’s always a bit of a scavenger hunt adventure to find them all and this year was no different = 16 courses were held in 6 different buildings spread over the entire campus!  Turkey Red Dying won the prize for most creative dirctions by using ‘Follow the String’ to lead us through a labyrinth of hallways, in and out of the building (due to wet paint!) until we arrived at their location.

We got our classroom cleanup and table displays ready.

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Here’s a sampling of the work produced in the Tapestry course woven by
Sally Bohlings    ——     Alison Coates    ——–   Sandra Combes
Sally Bohling  Alison Coates Sandra Combes

Rita Corbett       ————        Andrea Cross
Rita Corbett  Andrea Cross

Elizabeth Hancock     ——–      Barbara Wright
Elizabeth Hancock  Barbara Wright

Here’s a quick tour of some of the other courses…..

Bags_1  Bags from Bits

Breaking rules_1 breaking rules_2  Rule Breaking Weaving

Damask weaving  Pick-up Damask in linen

Designer spinning_1 Designer Spinning

Eco dye_1 Eco Dye_2 Eco Dying

Garments_1 Garments_2 Sewing Handwoven Fabric

Ikat_1 Warp Ikat

string bags_1 string bags_2 String Bags

Turkey red_1 turkey red_2 Turkey Red & All That Madder

Felting with Suzanne Higgs – Day 1

March ended with 2 days of felting at the Michigan Fiber Festival Symposium in Kalamazoo, MI.  I did 2 workshops with Suzanne Higgs.

Day 1 – Dyeing Habotia Silk & Nuno Felting

1) We started by dyeing 5mm habotia silk with Jacquard Acid Dyes.   Mine began with three dye passes using yellow, hot pink and burgundy.  This came out kind of “interesting”….. and Suzanne suggested over dyeing it.  Why not!!  We mixed up a combination of more hot pink than I used the first time, red-orange and a touch of black.  It looked like a black mess but once it was rinsed out = VERY nice!!

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2) Next we laid out the silk leaving bunched up sections that will give texture.
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3) Then laid out thin layers of wool over the silk and gently rubbed using soapy water to felt the wool to the silk.
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4) I LOVED the end result = looks like tree bark!!  I have just enough to make a vest.
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So much to do… so little time!

The good news is… it’s been a busy 2 weeks.
The bad news is….. it’s been a busy 2 weeks and there are only so many hours in the day!

A dear friend of 30 years passed away on her 90th birthday.  Jean was an amazing woman – a teacher, master gardener, weaver and storyteller who was always up for an adventure and road trip.  She’s the one who connected me with my very first weaving teacher – Gloria Teeter.  I’ve been helping her family inventory and organize the sale of her loom and spinning wheel, plus all the equipment that goes with them!  [The loom is still for sale so if anyone is interested in the details – send me an email.]

Last weekend I was the emcee for the Storytelling Festival at the ARK here in Ann Arbor with Donald Davis, Carol Birch, and Laura Lee Hayes performing.  The stories told on Saturday night for adults and Sunday afternoon for families were a spellbinding blend of humor, poignancy, rich language and imagery.

Plus I was working on a second felt wall hanging to submit with ‘Heron’ for the AAFG show in March at the Village Theater at Cherry Hill in Canton, MI.  I decided to do a self-portrait.  Now I struggle when it comes to sketching/drawing and being a ‘process’ artist/‘experiential’ learner … oh this was going to be an adventure!

Because I don’t ‘draw’ I take a lot of photographs and use those as my ‘jumping off’ point when it comes to design.

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Here I am in the lantern tower windows of Ely Cathedral, England.

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This is the view from the floor below.

This is the view from the floor below!

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Next I cropped the photo.

I cropped the photo…

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enlarge to 36" x 43" pattern

…enlarged to make a 36″ x 43″ pattern.

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laid out my wool fibers onto black silk chiffon fabric and felted using soapy water and rubbing.

Take #1
I laid out Merino wool fiber, black silk chiffon fabric and then backed it with Romney wool – the only black wool in my stash.  I felted it – rubbing/rolling using soapy water.  End size is 29″ x 24″ but the Romney was too ‘hairy’ so it did not felt the way I wanted and worked it’s way from the back to the surface = oops!!  Even after giving it a ‘shave’ with an electric beard trimmer, this was not going to work…..

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face test

…but it did give me a piece I could practice adding the facial features….

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12x18 test

Take #2
12″ x 18″ sample while I waited for my order of black Merino fiber to arrive.

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Daydreaming

Third time’s the charm!!   “Daydreaming”  (29″ x 33″)