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Cartography Chic

Guilds and associations are great places to connect with other artists, bounce ideas around, get support, feedback, and be challenged to push one’s creativity and art.  My fiber guild is the Ann Arbor Fiberarts Guild and back in May 2014, a challenge was issued for the April 2015 meeting:

Recycled and Repurposed Runway 

Tablecloths, cassette tape, telephone wire, discarded garments, curtains and draperies, old sweaters, cast off jewelry – any and all of these materials might go into a garment or accessory you create for this creative runway show.
Your object of fashion may be wearable and useable…. or not,
sedate or flamboyant…. or something in between,
fashionable…. or not.
The only criteria is it must be made from used materials.
How creative can Guild members be?
We will learn the answer to that on the runway!

I had already woven a garment using audio cassette tape [see July 2013 post “Recycle… Upcycle…. Fairs… and more…..”] which had been part of our annual spring fashion show in 2014 so I wanted to come up with something new.  What to use and what to do?  For the next 9 months ideas simmer in the back of my mind…. and then I cleaned out a cabinet.  There were the National Geographic maps that had been collecting for over 30 years!

Cartography ~ study and practice of making maps
The premise being that by combining science, aesthetics, and technique,
reality can be modeled in ways that communicate spatial information effectively.

I’ve always liked maps.  The lines, shapes, colors can be beautiful works of art.  We even used them to decorate the nursery when the kids were little.  I would weave something out this pile of maps!

nursery map

But what?

In 1999, I attended my first Association of Guilds of Weavers, Spinners and Dyers summer school taking a course on weaving with bulrushes taught by Linda Lemieux. In the USA, bulrushes are a protected plant but in the UK, they can be cultivated and harvested making this was a unique opportunity for me.  We wove braided bands, containers and finished the week with making a hat.

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I would use those same techniques to weave a hat & purse out of maps!  I made samples weaving on the bias and plain weave to see how pliable the map paper was.  It was quickly apparent that the paper on its own was very flimsy and I would have to reinforce it to keep it from tearing and to be firm enough to hold the shape.

Using my notes from a workshop I took in 2000 from Jackie Abrams weaving with painted cotton paper as reference, I used a spray adhesive to attach the map paper to sheets of artist canvas.  I made several more tests cutting the map/canvas strips into 1/2″ and 1/4″ widths and used waxed linen thread when twinning was needed.  This worked much better and I was ready to start!

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I laid out 1/2″ wide map/canvas strips in a plain weave….

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and laid that on the bias over a hard foam hat block to weave the crown using pins and clips to keep it in place.  I stitched the base of the crown to secure the proper diameter.

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I was not able to weave the brim as I had done on the bulrush hat but made it separate and attached it to the crown using hot glue.

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Next I trimmed the spokes, used the spay adhesive to attach a map to the underside of the brim, and machine stitched around the edge.

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Making the purse was MUCH easier!!!  Using 1/2″ map/canvas strips and a styrofoam block for the mold, I wove a 12″ x 5 1/2″ x 1″ clutch bag.

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All the pieces were given a coat of matt varnish to provide added strength and protection.

The Cartography Chic Hat & Purse Set is just the ticket
for any explorer with a flair for fashion!

Building a Tapestry Loom

The summer of 2011 I took my first tapestry weaving course at The Association of Guilds of Weavers, Spinners and Dyers summer school held in Edinburgh, Scotland that year.  Our instructor, Dot Seddon, had us working on simple frame looms which are very portable, fast and easy to warp, plus I brought along one that I had made.

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Midweek we took a field trip to the Dovecot Tapestry Studio in Edinburgh.  When I walked into the space I was immediately hit with a déjà vu experience = I’ve been here before!

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The building that now houses the Dovecot Studio is the old ‘Infirmary Street Baths’, the first public baths in Edinburgh – built in 1885, designed by Robert Morham – and I used to swim there in the mid 1970’s when I was a student at Edinburgh University!   The baths closed in the 1990’s and fell into disrepair.  The Dovecot Studio moved into the space in 2009 after a 2 year – £12million renovation.  This is a perfect studio space with tons of natural light from the glass ceiling, the pool has been filled in to make the weaving floor, the changing rooms have been turned into office and meeting rooms, and the observation walkway is used as gallery space.  Click here for a wonderful visual tour of the studio.

Here I saw vertical/high warp looms built of steel scaffolding pipe.

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When I came home I was inspired to try weaving a larger tapestry.  But looms are expensive so I adapted a triangle loom I already had into a larger version of what I had used at summer school.

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I liked working upright but it was difficult to get and keep an even tension on a warp that large, plus I wanted to have an option of being able to lift the warp threads for faster/easier weaving and the frame I was using had nails on all 4 sides.  I got another large frame, added nails to the top and bottom only, and figured out a shedding device to lift my warp threads.  This was an improvement but there were still problems with the warp tension and the easel stand took up quite a bit of space.

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I took another tapestry course at the next AWSD summer school in 2013.  [see ‘Weaving in Wales’ posts from September 2013.]  Our instructor, Alastair Duncan, brought his scaffold loom.  I was able to get a good look at how it’s made and to weave on it for the week.

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I decided that this is the type of loom I wanted.  Looking at my pictures and notes, my engineer husband was able to come up with plan to use galvanized pipe so all the parts would be available at the local hardware store.  I received a professional development grant from my guild, The Ann Arbor Fiberarts Guild, to help with the cost of materials.

We used 1 1/2″ pipe for the top/bottom and 1 1/4″ pipe for the sides with bushings to connect and it can be taken apart to transport; scaffold level jacks are used to adjust the vertical sides for control of the warp tension; attached it to a wood base; and added measuring tapes to the top and bottom.

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The finished size is 4′ x 6′ with 3 1/2′ x 5′ weaving space.

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I still need to create a shedding device like the Dovecot looms have to lift the warp threads but I am excited to get started on a new tapestry!