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Cartography Chic

Guilds and associations are great places to connect with other artists, bounce ideas around, get support, feedback, and be challenged to push one’s creativity and art.  My fiber guild is the Ann Arbor Fiberarts Guild and back in May 2014, a challenge was issued for the April 2015 meeting:

Recycled and Repurposed Runway 

Tablecloths, cassette tape, telephone wire, discarded garments, curtains and draperies, old sweaters, cast off jewelry – any and all of these materials might go into a garment or accessory you create for this creative runway show.
Your object of fashion may be wearable and useable…. or not,
sedate or flamboyant…. or something in between,
fashionable…. or not.
The only criteria is it must be made from used materials.
How creative can Guild members be?
We will learn the answer to that on the runway!

I had already woven a garment using audio cassette tape [see July 2013 post “Recycle… Upcycle…. Fairs… and more…..”] which had been part of our annual spring fashion show in 2014 so I wanted to come up with something new.  What to use and what to do?  For the next 9 months ideas simmer in the back of my mind…. and then I cleaned out a cabinet.  There were the National Geographic maps that had been collecting for over 30 years!

Cartography ~ study and practice of making maps
The premise being that by combining science, aesthetics, and technique,
reality can be modeled in ways that communicate spatial information effectively.

I’ve always liked maps.  The lines, shapes, colors can be beautiful works of art.  We even used them to decorate the nursery when the kids were little.  I would weave something out this pile of maps!

nursery map

But what?

In 1999, I attended my first Association of Guilds of Weavers, Spinners and Dyers summer school taking a course on weaving with bulrushes taught by Linda Lemieux. In the USA, bulrushes are a protected plant but in the UK, they can be cultivated and harvested making this was a unique opportunity for me.  We wove braided bands, containers and finished the week with making a hat.

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I would use those same techniques to weave a hat & purse out of maps!  I made samples weaving on the bias and plain weave to see how pliable the map paper was.  It was quickly apparent that the paper on its own was very flimsy and I would have to reinforce it to keep it from tearing and to be firm enough to hold the shape.

Using my notes from a workshop I took in 2000 from Jackie Abrams weaving with painted cotton paper as reference, I used a spray adhesive to attach the map paper to sheets of artist canvas.  I made several more tests cutting the map/canvas strips into 1/2″ and 1/4″ widths and used waxed linen thread when twinning was needed.  This worked much better and I was ready to start!

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I laid out 1/2″ wide map/canvas strips in a plain weave….

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and laid that on the bias over a hard foam hat block to weave the crown using pins and clips to keep it in place.  I stitched the base of the crown to secure the proper diameter.

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I was not able to weave the brim as I had done on the bulrush hat but made it separate and attached it to the crown using hot glue.

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Next I trimmed the spokes, used the spay adhesive to attach a map to the underside of the brim, and machine stitched around the edge.

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Making the purse was MUCH easier!!!  Using 1/2″ map/canvas strips and a styrofoam block for the mold, I wove a 12″ x 5 1/2″ x 1″ clutch bag.

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All the pieces were given a coat of matt varnish to provide added strength and protection.

The Cartography Chic Hat & Purse Set is just the ticket
for any explorer with a flair for fashion!

When disaster strikes……

Every artist knows there are times when a project just does not want to go as planned and this was one of those projects.

In September I started on a commissioned shawl.  The warp was 10/2 cotton in 20 colors.

rainbow warp

642 yarns threaded in a point twill over 8 shafts/harnesses.

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3″ into the weaving and I realized I had a misthread in the pattern = inappropriate expletive uttered!!!  What to do?
Do I (A) keep going with the philosophy that we humans are not perfect and embrace my imperfection or (B) correct the mistake = unweave, untie, unthread, rethread, and retie?

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If this was something I was making for myself, I would probably go with option (A) as there was only 1 thread in the wrong place.  BUT this shawl is something I am selling and the buyer deserves the highest quality work I can give…. so option (B) is it.

I took out the black 5/2 cotton weft and the red header then dealt with 200+ threads and heddles to get the 1 thread moved to the correct shaft, retie and finally back to where I was…. 24 hours earlier.

Weaving now went fairly smoothly…

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…until 5″ from the end when I noticed a lot of black fuzz = uh-oh.  I took out several rows to see what was going on and I realized the 5/2 cotton yarn was disintegrating = WHAT is going on here????  This particular cone of yarn had been in my stash for quite a while and though the outer section was OK so the first 2/3 of the shawl was fine, the middle of the cone had rotted and the last third of the shawl was falling apart = REALLY inappropriate expletives uttered!!

At this point I had no idea if the fabric was stable and would hold up during washing so I stopped weaving, hemmed it, cut it off the loom and held my breath as I put it in the washing machine.

Here’s how it came out.  A misthread is a pain but this is a disaster that cannot be saved.

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I emailed my client and explained the situation.  Luckily she was OK with getting the shawl by the end of October so back to square one I go.  I decided this time I would use 5/2 bamboo for the weft, ordered the NEW yarn, and as I waited for the delivery, I began to wind out another warp.  I kept the ends of the old warp threaded through the reed and heddles so all I had to do is tie the new warp onto the old then pull it through.

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The second warp wound on and the new weft in hand, time to start weaving…. AGAIN.

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This time there was no added drama as 87″ of this new shawl was woven, hemmed, cut off the loom…

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…and the finishing work began = tying knots and twisting fringe.

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Holding my breath I put it into the washing machine….. and it came out just fine = whew!!  

Because one side of the fabric has the colored warp dominant and the other has the black weft dominant I sewed the shawl into a mobius loop so that you can see both sides = SUCCESS!!  And the Rainbow Mobius Wrap has been shipped to her new owner.

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Lesson learned from this project:
check ALL yarn prior to using it in a project!!!

 

Surround Sound and Green Man make the cut!

Surround Sound Vest’ wins FUNCTIONAL FIBER 3rd Place award!

Surround Sound vest

83 pieces were entered into the Michigan League of Handweavers 18th Biennial Show.

The ‘Green Man’ tapestry was also accepted into the show.

Green Man_Barbara Schutzgruber

The exhibit at the Holland Area Arts Council, 150 E. 8th Street, Holland MI 49423, runs from May 17-June 29, 2014. (Regular hours: Monday-Thursday 10am-8pm, Friday 10am-5pm, Saturday 10am-3pm)

The reception, awards ceremony and talk by juror Ann Keister (retired professor of Art & Design at Grand Valley State University) will be on Sunday, June 29, 2014 from 2-4pm.

Read stories behind the creation of these pieces
Surround Sound Vest

The Saga of the Green Man
part 1  –  part 2  –  part 3

 

A Frame for ‘Day Dreaming’

After looking at the wall pieces in the AAFG exhibit at the Village Theater, my felt piece ‘Day Dreaming’ needs some ‘drama’ before I submit it again to anything. This morning I got an idea = actually frame it using an old window frame!! Did a test print on paper to see how it might look = I like it!!! Checked out the local Re-use/Re-cycle place and yes… they have old window frames for only $5 = woo-hoo!!  Next step figure out how to actually do it.

Day Dream window frame

So much to do… so little time!

The good news is… it’s been a busy 2 weeks.
The bad news is….. it’s been a busy 2 weeks and there are only so many hours in the day!

A dear friend of 30 years passed away on her 90th birthday.  Jean was an amazing woman – a teacher, master gardener, weaver and storyteller who was always up for an adventure and road trip.  She’s the one who connected me with my very first weaving teacher – Gloria Teeter.  I’ve been helping her family inventory and organize the sale of her loom and spinning wheel, plus all the equipment that goes with them!  [The loom is still for sale so if anyone is interested in the details – send me an email.]

Last weekend I was the emcee for the Storytelling Festival at the ARK here in Ann Arbor with Donald Davis, Carol Birch, and Laura Lee Hayes performing.  The stories told on Saturday night for adults and Sunday afternoon for families were a spellbinding blend of humor, poignancy, rich language and imagery.

Plus I was working on a second felt wall hanging to submit with ‘Heron’ for the AAFG show in March at the Village Theater at Cherry Hill in Canton, MI.  I decided to do a self-portrait.  Now I struggle when it comes to sketching/drawing and being a ‘process’ artist/‘experiential’ learner … oh this was going to be an adventure!

Because I don’t ‘draw’ I take a lot of photographs and use those as my ‘jumping off’ point when it comes to design.

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Here I am in the lantern tower windows of Ely Cathedral, England.

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This is the view from the floor below.

This is the view from the floor below!

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Next I cropped the photo.

I cropped the photo…

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enlarge to 36" x 43" pattern

…enlarged to make a 36″ x 43″ pattern.

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laid out my wool fibers onto black silk chiffon fabric and felted using soapy water and rubbing.

Take #1
I laid out Merino wool fiber, black silk chiffon fabric and then backed it with Romney wool – the only black wool in my stash.  I felted it – rubbing/rolling using soapy water.  End size is 29″ x 24″ but the Romney was too ‘hairy’ so it did not felt the way I wanted and worked it’s way from the back to the surface = oops!!  Even after giving it a ‘shave’ with an electric beard trimmer, this was not going to work…..

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face test

…but it did give me a piece I could practice adding the facial features….

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12x18 test

Take #2
12″ x 18″ sample while I waited for my order of black Merino fiber to arrive.

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Daydreaming

Third time’s the charm!!   “Daydreaming”  (29″ x 33″)